I woke the boy up at 2:10 AM. We had gotten his gear ready the night before and left it by the front door. We were in the truck, pulling out of the driveway at 2:45.
We sailed up and over the Cajon Pass and into the high desert, the Mojave. Picked up Route 395 and started heading north. I like driving at night, something about it energizes me. 395 is a fairly
dangerous road. It is 2 lane blacktop, and has become a major route to the eastern side of the state. Lots of big rigs, and most folks travel at 70 to 75, the speed limit is 65. Because of the trucks, most drivers are looking to pass when possible. Since the road twists and turns and rolls, this becomes an interesting challenge. Over the years that I have done projects up this way, I have found cars coming the other way in my lane while they were passing illegally. But this night was quiet.
The road rolls across the Mojave. It's a stunning place, with surprising changes in appearance at
different times of the year. In the dark, jackrabbits with monstrous ears and darting coyotes appear in the glow of the headlights, then are gone. George falls asleep and softly snores next to me. I look up through the side window at a black sky crowded with stars. Beautiful.
We fly through the mostly abandoned gold mining towns of Johannesburg and Red Mountain. Then past the turn off for Ridgecrest and the China Lake Naval Weapons Testing Area. This is where the Navy ships fire their missiles while sitting off the coast. I've done projects on this base. During the day flyovers by the latest in fighter technology are commonplace. This is where I first saw the stealth planes in flight. But we're not turning here tonight, and speed past in the dark.
Soon the road sidles up to the eastern flank of the Sierra Nevada mountain range. They start small, but soon shoot up to fantastic heights. We will skirt the edge of this mountain range for quite a while, eventually heading up into them. First, however, we pass Owens Dry Lake. This was a mineral lake filled, at one time, by the Owens River. The river was diverted early in the 1900's to satisfy the thirst of Los Angeles. Some of the minerals now expose to the wind are very toxic, as a result, people in this area have one of the highest rates of respiratory diseases. I've
driven through here during high winds and it looked like a heavy fog bank. But it was dust that made the inside of your nose hurt and your eyes burn. I had read that the plan was to allow a little of the river water to enter, hopefully covering the lake bed with a few feet of water over a period of several years. I
had thought that after this wet winter, I would see some progress, but it looks as dry as ever. The eastern sky is starting to lighten a bit, in the growing light I'm starting to see snow on the peaks to my left. We continue past Olancha, and the turn off for Death Valley. Now it's getting light, and I take a couple of shots out the window while I drive. Now we pass through Lone Pine, the staging area for those who want to hike to the peak of Mount Whitney, at 14,494 feet. Next comes the towns of Independence, then Big Pine.
At 6:30 we took on gas in Bishop, our first stop. 250 miles on the odo. George was awake, so we did a drive thru at Carl's. He got the "Everything Burrito" and I got the sourdough ham and egg sandwich. Ugh. Couldn't finish it, too heavy. We were out of Bishop by 6:50.
From Bishop, the road tilts up as it climbs over Sherwin Summit. I did a project at a Microwave site on this summit. Spent about 5 days total here. It is beautiful at night. The towns and tourist areas are far away, very little ambient light, and high altitude. At the end of the day, around 8 o'clock, I'd come out to go
down to Bishop where I was staying. I would turn off all the lights and just stand there. The Milky Way was impressive, I almost always saw shooting stars.
From here the road rolls along at 6000 to 7500 feet until the turn off to
Mammoth Lakes. We got to the ski resort at about 7:30. George got his gear together and I took off. I was back on 395 heading north by 7:50.
Next up is Dead Man's Summit at 8,500. After that it's beautiful June Lake, and then past the road that leads up to the Tioga Pass. The signs showed the pass closed which is no surprise. After a winter like this one, it probably won't be open on the 4th of July. This pass goes up to the eastern entrance of Yosemite Park. I've been over the top once, a few years ago in August. I can't describe how gorgeous it is. After that turn off, it's into the town of Lee Vining (another project years ago), and right past Mono Lake.
Mono is a salt lake, in the past brine shrimp were harvested there. It has been dwindling for years due to the siphoning off of water from it's tributaries, so folks in the cities can water their damn lawns. The last time I saw the lake I was shocked at how low it was. Well, not any more, it was the highest I've ever
seen it. Very pretty from the lookout point above, on the way up to Conway Summit at 8500 feet.
From Conway, the landscape drops a bit to Bridgeport, then up again over Devils Grade Summit at 7,500 feet. At this point the road picks up the Walker River. Today it's swollen with snow melt, it's surface boiling as it drops down the mountain, looping back and forth under the road, first on the right, then the left, and back again. There's a fly fisherman standing in the early morning gray, intently working on his line.
This is the West. Huge, wide open spaces, where, for a little while you can actually be startled by the sight of another human. I roll past meadows with horses, cattle grazing, corral fencing
keeping them contained. It lifts my spirits to see all this, and I stop briefly here
and there just to soak it in. The turn off for Sonora Pass (also closed) flashes by, then the Monitor Pass, which I was amazed to see was open. I guess they work a bit at keeping this one open because of the town of Markleeville. This is where the Markleeville Death Ride is held. What incredible country to see from the saddle of a bike. I drove over this pass in the summer once. Alpine meadows, wildflowers as the road travels for miles over a high plateau.
Soon enough, I've passed the Nevada state line and Lake Topaz with it's casino. From there it's not far to my destination in Gardnerville. I pull up to the job site for the 10:00 meeting at 9:50. I have now traveled 425 miles. The meeting passes uneventfully, I take lots of pictures for review and I'm out of there by 12:00.
Everything in reverse, and I'm back at Mammoth by 2:30. I find George sitting on the sundeck in a t-shirt talking to a nice woman he had met. He's about done, conditions are getting soft with the warm temperatures. But he's got lots of stories, which he tells as we head back down to Bishop. We have our
dinner at a Thai place and stop in the great bakery in town for a few loaves of their bread. We tank up again and head out, seeing the mountains dwindle as the evening's light does as well.
Pull back in the driveway at 8:45 PM. We've been going for 18 hours and 850 miles. What a day!
Much of this trip would make a great bike tour. We saw about half a dozen folks doing just that. Most of the road above Ridgecrest becomes divided highway, with a nice shoulder. The speed of the cars going by is a bit intimidating, and would be terrifying on those stretches of two lane with no shoulder. I remember long stretches like that on the ride across the US, where you were riding on the white stripe painted at the side of the road, getting crowded every time traffic would meet coming both ways. Pretty scary when you start thinking about the fact that they are going 70. The best stretch would be the road between Bishop and Lee Vining. And quite a workout.